800px width, 96ppi
My E-Maxx!

Some modifications on my E-Maxx.

16. Revo Center rear axle. Let see how that one holds up. They are thicker then the stock E-Maxx shafts and the curvilinear splines should avoid twisting. Constant-velocity without steel.

1. Place something medium-soft and light behind the front skid and it won't brake as easy anymore. I used some black scum that the lightwheight input shaft was packed in. RPM skid protection just add to complexity and make truck a little more heavy.

2. Less wheight with Titanium Turnbuckles. Should only be used if the truck is light enough and you don't use extra large and heavy tires.

3. Less wheight with Titanium Hinge Pins. It's not easy to see but I used some silicone glue to make the end E-clips stay. I think these are stronger/stiffer and of course lighter then the stock steel hinge pings.

4. The original Traxxas high-torque servo is used here for shifting. Then it is less easy to damage the Carrier and the output gears.

5. Schulze 1897KWF SuperMaxx. It was supposed to be waterproofed but I had plenty problems like extreme amounts of cogging, beep-beep-beep, wierd beeps and dead truck when I drove in snow. I fixed it by wrapping it in plastic, fill the ends with silicone glue and then zip-it with zip-ties. It is spec'd for 18 cells and 97Amp continous and is barely warm after I run it. The Hacker C50 usually run much hotter.

6. Ah the good old Airtronics 94358Z ERG-VR Hi-Torque 200 oz/in servo. I was about to waterproof it but found it already had rubber-sealing.

7. The Hacker C50 12cell brushless motor. Don't gear it too high with high-voltage cells, well at least my C50 run untouchably hot! And that with a 15/72 gearing. (Recommendations).

8. FSBA6001 GP3300 6 Cell World's 1.18+ Pack. Yeah! I bet more then 12 cells in the E-Maxx is not worth anything, either buy more expensive batteries or use the money on lighter accessories. With 14+ cells the truck become heavy and the Titans melts and the speed controllers temperature safeguard kicks in etc.

9. W.S. Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug. Presumably the best there is and absolutely necessary for a brushless monster truck. I've looped the two battery packs so I only need one plug and less 12g wire. Makes the truck lighter.

10. Stock drivetrain in plastic. I bought and tested a steel CVD Kit replacing the entire drive train. But it rusted, it squeaked, it needed constant oiling, it was difficult to take apart with all the locktite and it was heavy. It tore up the differrential gears for breakfest. Upgrade one thing, the truck gets heavy and stiff and something else breaks. Eternal upgrade cycle of teh evil!

11. Aluminum upgrades. Idler gear shafts, input shaft, output shaft, pivot balls. These will hold just fine if the truck is light. At least they have in my truck. But don't buy aluminum parts like shock towers and a-arms, they are expensive, will make truck heavy and stiff (and other parts will break) and if they bend they can't bend back.

12. Oh and you can see I use the RPM shock towers. The stock ones kept breaking on me but these ones are almost unbreakable. Because they are soft!

13. No heavy Roll Cage here! Just a simple foam thing strapped to the motor with a zip-tie. It is soft so the rest of the vehicle doesn't get any "shocks" when you crash, and has virtually no wheight. Yes I am saying roll cages aren't very smart.

14. Double-sided tape and some foam and get a firmer grip on the throttle. The foam is from a box my mousepad came in I think. I don't throw away anything.

15. Pro-Line Bow Tie tires and Velocity wheels. Good grip and very light. I save maybe one and a half pound with these instead of stock setup. Of course, in the winter I use the stock trackors, they work very well in snow!

Heatsink for the C50 Maxx. I cut up an old p2 aluminium heatsink.

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